Visiting Banda Aceh: Not Your Typical Holiday Destination
I love coffee, and I’ve planned some of my travel around places known for their coffee. One of the first things I’ll do wherever I land is to google “best coffee” in the area and vet places by pictures and reviews. Since I’ve already traveled to the top three coffee producing countries in the world (Brazil, Vietnam, and Colombia), it was about time to visit the fourth largest producer, Indonesia.
So when we decided to travel to Indonesia this summer, I searched for places to visit based on my passion for coffee. Although it would be my first time in the country, I wasn’t interested in going to Bali. Not only because I’m a teensy bit superstitious and won’t travel there with my boyfriend because of the Bali curse, but also because I often enjoy traveling to places that aren’t mainstream.
During my research, I found a few forums and travel guides mentioning delicious coffee located in Aceh, Northern Sumatra. From a quick glance at Google maps, I saw that the island of Pulau Weh was just an hour ferry ride away, which was known for its crystal clear water for snorkeling and diving.
Delicious coffee and clear water to swim in - I was sold. I didn’t do more research until we booked our flight to find out that Banda Aceh was where the 2004 tsunami killing at least 168,000 in Indonesia and (over 224,000 people in 14 countries) took place or that one of the most conservative Muslim areas in the region that still practices Sharia Law. I realized that it would be a different experience than what I initially envisioned, but I was up for the adventure. In the future, I’ll go into more detail about visiting Pulau Weh and what it was like visiting a country that practices Shariah Law; but for now, following is a quick overview of key things to know about navigating through Banda Aceh City:
GETTING IN:
There are some flights through local carriers. We flew with Air Asia into Sultan Iskandar Muda Aiport from Kuala Lumpur.
According to Wikitravel, you can also grab a night bus from Medan to Banda Aceh if you’re closer to Medan or prefer flying into Medan’s airport.
For right now, US citizens do not need a visa to enter Indonesia, but that can always change, so make sure to check what documents you’re required to carry to enter the country.
When you arrive, ignore the hound of taxi drivers, walk outside the airport, and call a Grab (Singapore’s version of Uber). The drivers and the experience are less stressful and much more pleasant. You have an option to pay via the app or with cash.
Getting around: Download Grab because the taxi drivers can be obnoxious, especially at the airport. I heard that they bully Grab and Go-Jek drivers and their rates are more expensive than the ride-hailing companies. I recommend Grab in Banda Aceh because the Go-Jek driver we used from the airport told us that more people drive for Grab in the area and messages between driver and passenger can be automatically translated in the Grab app.
WHERE TO STAY: The hotels in Banda Aceh are inexpensive, and you can find something to fit your price range.
Hotel Kyriad Muraya (~$37/night): We “splurged” and decided to stay here for our first couple of nights. The hotel is relatively new, the rooms were spacious, clean, and modern, and the breakfast had a variety of options. They also have a cafe on an outdoor patio where you can grab drinks and food. The staff was helpful, and we could easily communicate with them.
Ayani Hotel Banda Aceh: On our return from Pulau Weh, we stayed one more night in Banda Aceh at the, which was around the same price as the Hotel Kyriad. The food at their restaurant was good. However, the rooms weren’t as clean, and we had a harder communicating with the staff at this hotel.
WHAT TO WEAR: This region is more conservative, and while a few locals told me that I can wear t-shirts and longer shorts, I wanted to be respectful of the culture and wore loose pants, button-down shirts rolled up at the elbows, and long dresses. I did see the local Chinese Indonesian women wearing t-shirts and longer shorts, so I’m sure it’s fine to do the same. I’d recommend that you avoid wearing tank tops and short shorts if you want to be respectful of the culture and to avoid sticking out like a sore thumb. Once you’re on Pulau Weh, however, the dress is much more relaxed.
WHAT TO DO:
Aceh Tsunami Museum: This museum honors the lives lost during the tsunami through sharing some of the stories and photos of those who were affected by the disaster.
Lampulo Boat: a fishing boat that landed on a house during the tsunami and saved 59 people who climbed on it to survive.
Baiturrahman Grand Mosque: This mosque is stunning. You’ll find people hiding out from the heat in the building. Some of them may even be snoring away. Ladies, be prepared to cover up. The man collecting shoes by the entry can provide you with a cape to cover up. It’s stifling hot to wear, but it’s worth visiting. Men, you’re okay wearing pants and a t-shirt.
Cool off from the heat in the shopping malls. The best one is Suzuya mall. It’s the closest you’ll find to a real mall with a decent variety of restaurants and a large market to pick up snacks, drinks, tissues, toiletries, and more.
Coffee Shops: In place of bars and clubs, locals spend most of their time socializing here.
You can check out the renowned Warung Kopi Solong known for their robust and traditional coffee. When I was there, the place was full of mostly men hanging out and smoking. Come here for the coffee, but be prepared for a lot of cigarette smoke and no AC.
If modern and hipster is more your thing, check out Moorden Coffee Shop with their innovative drink menu, which includes their signature drink “Nirapresso” (espresso with palm nectar), as well as a variety of teas, smoothies, and fresh juices.
Take the ferry to Pulau Weh (Sabang) and stay a few nights to explore the vast island full of beaches and wildlife. There’s much more to do here than in Banda Aceh.
WHERE TO EAT: We didn’t have the best luck here. When the weather is over 30℃ / 86℉, we didn’t have much of an appetite for the heavier Indonesian dishes. We ended up eating at the Suzuya mall, in coffee shops, and at our hotels, which had pretty decent food. If you’re into the street food scene, there are many carts around the Jl. Jambi, Jl. WR Supratman and JL Kartini roads, as well as right outside the entrance to the Baiturrahman Grand Mosque. Ask your hotel for their recommendations.
Mind the gap
Like Jakarta and other places I’ve traveled to in Southeast Asia, there are random holes in the sidewalk. A friend once fell straight into one when he wasn’t looking. For your safety, keep an eye on the ground in front of you, and mind the gap!
While I enjoyed visiting somewhere new and different, I think one visit to Banda Aceh was enough to see everything there was to see. I may swing through on the way to Pulau Weh again one day, but there are still many other coffee growing regions in the world I’d like to explore.
